Het maatpak, de mannelijkste kledingstijl die bestaat

maatpak

Menig vrouw smelt bij het zien van een man in een pak. Het pak is afgekeken van het legerkostuum en werd vroeger voornamelijk casual gedragen. Toen het pak steeds meer voorkwam in het straatbeeld, werd het steeds normaler om het naar speciale gelegenheden te dragen. Langzaam maar zeker werd het maatpak het toonbeeld van zakelijke mannelijkheid.

Hoi

Hoi, mijn naam is Yasper Kuiper en ik schrijf deze gastblog over (maat)pakken. Ik ben werkzaam als marketing en sales medewerker bij Critisized, een maatkledingwinkel in Rotterdam. Hierdoor kom ik vaak genoeg in aanraking met zakelijke kleding om er iets van te vinden. Nederland heeft helaas geen pakkencultuur zoals ze die in Groot-Brittannië of Italië kennen. Daar zou ik graag een stokje voor steken. Helaas is het motto “doe maar normaal, dan doe je al gek genoeg”. Weg met Nederlandse bescheidenheid “doe maar gek het zal je beter staan”.

De snit

Ik had het net over Italië en Groot-Brittannië. De pakkencultuur zit zo diepgeworteld in deze landen dat men zelfs spreekt van een Britse of Italiaanse snit of stijl.
Ga naar een tailor en vraag om een Italiaanse snit. Dan krijg je een slimfitpak met 2 cm ruimte op de bovenbenen, korte broekspijpen en een slimfit colbert. De lengte van het jasje is ook relatief kort. Het ziet er allemaal wat strakker en gelikter uit. De Britse snit daarentegen is het tegenovergestelde; het jasje is langer en wijder. Bovendien heeft het jasje vaak twee splitten aan de achterkant voor bewegingsvrijheid. De flap rijkt tot over het zitvlak.

Maatpak: de stof

Het uitkiezen van de stof is altijd lastig. Het beslissingsproces wordt vaak makkelijker als je in ieder geval weet wat je niet wilt. Welke kleur wil je niet? Welke eigenschappen moet het niet hebben? Voor welke gelegenheden is het pak niet bestemd? Daarnaast het is seizoen erg belangrijk waarin je het pak wil dragen.

Colbert trend

De trend van het moment is dat alles mag als het gaat om de rever. Double breasted, een piekrever, twee knoops met een normale rever, een dunne rever ga zo maar door. Influencers op Instagram en Pinterest bepalen nu wat hip is. De grote modeketens hebben het niet meer voor het zeggen. Neem een kijkje op een van deze mediums en je zult zien “the sky is the limit”.

Maatpak accessoires

Regel 1 is natuurlijk dat je schoenen bij je riem passen. Verder moet een das bij een pochet passen. Dit hoef ik jou natuurlijk niet te vertellen. Maar wat nu steeds vaker te zien is, zijn armbanden en ringen of een nette tie clip. De tie clip is terug van weggeweest. Het is een klein detail maar kan erg stoer staan. Ook zijn armbanden erg in trek. Let op, deze moeten niet groter zijn dan je horloge en moeten een subtiele kleur hebben.

Conclusie

Samenvattend kan je zeggen dat er een Britse en een Italiaanse snit bestaat. Verder dat het pak zijn oorsprong vindt bij het legeruniform. Ook dat er geen regels meer bestaan als het gaat om het kiezen van een rever. Als je een stof kiest, sluit dan uit wat je niet wilt. Bij het kiezen van een rever zijn er geen regels! Als laatste wil ik zeggen: “doe maar gek, het zal je beter staan”.
Ik hoop dat je wat aan mijn blogbericht hebt gehad. Voor vragen kan je mailen naar yasper@critisized.nl Neem een kijkje op de website van Critisized voor wat pakken inspiratie.

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162 reacties op “Het maatpak, de mannelijkste kledingstijl die bestaat

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